Friday, September 9, 2011

Weekend at the Hotel California

 I guess this was my summer for living out songs by The Eagles.  First, I went and stood on a corner in Winslow, Arizona.  And then in July, I checked into the Hotel California.

This version of the Hotel California is a small hotel in Palm Springs.  My husband and I have stayed in many small boutique hotels here over the years, usually to celebrate our anniversary in late July.  Palm Springs is a local getaway for us, as it's only about an hour and a half away.

We like the desert, and we like it when it's super hot -- call us crazy, but that's the vibe we enjoy out there: 95 degrees after sundown, walking around the downtown area on Palm Canyon Drive, people watching and window shopping, sitting under a mister at an outdoor restaurant, sipping on a cocktail. 

Because I like to change things up and check out the many hotels in this town, we've rarely stayed at the same lodging twice: not because anything was wrong per se, but just that there are so many options, and I want to experience them all.

So when it came time to book our anniversary weekend this year, I spent my usual hours of intense research over on TripAdvisor.  The #2 favorite (at the time I looked) was the Hotel California.



The number one thing to know about the Hotel California, or about any of Palm Springs' small hotels, is that it's all about service and intimacy.  These are not "hotels" in the usual sense of the word.  They are more like the old-fashioned motor lodges of yore. Many are single-story, or like the Hotel California,have two floors, but less than twenty rooms on the property.

Most of them have wall-mounted air-conditioner units, as opposed to silent central air.  Most are old: they've been around for over fifty years, have been refurbished and redecorated often, and spent those same years baking under the brutal desert sun.   The Hotel California is one of these, built in the late 1940s. I can remember driving by it on previous desert trips,  when it had obviously fallen on some hard times under its previous owners.  The place looked like a one-star destination at best, and its old white signage, with its rounded turquoise lettering, reminded me of the '80s, circa Miami Vice.

But that was a few years back, and these days the new, updated version of the Hotel California is a gem among the myriad boutique destinations in the desert.  The new owners are also the same team behind the Desert Riviera Hotel, another small hotel that is usually ranked #1 on Trip Advisor.  A stay at the Desert Riviera was tempting too, with its mid-century vibe and decor.  On the other hand, we have done "mid-century" a number of times in Palm Springs, and wanted a different feel for this trip.


From the moment that we were greeted by Lucy outside the gate in front of the hotel's new, more appropriately Spanish/southwestern facade, we could tell that the Hotel California was going to be a great experience.  Lucy was warm and friendly, and took us on a quick tour of the property before she led us to our room.  After pouring me a complimentary glass of chilled chardonnay, Lucy took us by the communal kitchen, explaining that we were free to use any of the spices, utensils or dishes, or to stash stuff in the fridge.  (There is also a barbeque grill out the back of the kitchen, in case you want to grill up your own steaks.) We passed by the small but inviting pool/spa area, with soft pop music playing in the background. 
Pool area with misters
Our room was near the side exit of the property, and featured a small, sheltered patio area in front of the door.  Lucy took us inside and explained that all of the snacks and drinks inside were on the house. There was a very small kitchen area, with a mini-fridge and coffee maker.  She left us alone, first asking if we needed her to make any reservations or recommendations for dinner, and to let us know that we had free use of the property's limousine (just please be sure to tip the driver well).  Since my husband doesn't drink, we didn't really need to make use of the limo, but what a great service to provide, in case you & your honey do want to indulge out on the town.
Front entrance of our room, with patio.  A candle on the table is lit for you every night; another thoughtful touch.
 Everything worked; nothing was broken.  The only mishap was when one of the slats of the vertical blinds covering the sliding glass doors fell off --- and we were able to stick it back into place well enough.  The room was decorated in what I'd call rustic Spanish via Pottery Barn:  red-tiled floors, a small sunburst mirror on the white wall,  and a black iron bed covered in a crisp white coverlet, with a patchwork quilt of dark florals folded at the foot. 

Our stay was peaceful, quiet and relaxing.  On Saturday afternoon, we floated in the pool, resting our heads on cushy pool noodles provided by the management.  All of the others guests during our stay seemed equally as interested in having a private, laid-back getaway. We smiled and nodded at one another, and thankfully  nobody got too rowdy and  "celebratory" out by the pool area, or in the patio area of the room above ours.

Note that the Hotel California is not located in a very walkable neighborhood, and you'll need to get into your car to reach the downtown strip of shops and restaurants on Palm Canyon Drive.   However, it's less than 10 minutes to make that trip, and it really wasn't a hassle at all.
Sing it with me: "there she stood in the doorway/I heard the mission bell..."
 We enjoyed some good meals out on the town:  the first night, we ate at a cozy Italian restaurant with good food and service. But what really stood out in the culinary dept. on this trip were the breakfasts: Saturday morning we ate at Elmer's, which was right down the road on Highway 111.  Great big pancake breakfast entrees, and warm, welcoming staff. This was "coffee-shop"' eating at its best, before that term got ruined by the likes of Denny's and Coco's.

On Sunday, we ate at Pinocchio in the Desert.  This was the second time we've eaten here, and I enjoyed it even more this time, thanks to the "bottomless" champagne on Sundays -- they leave a chilled ice bucket with a bottle of bubbly right on your table. I ordered orange juice, and looked out upon the desert sunlight through a pleasant mimosa haze.  The scene at Pinocchio's is wild: the outdoor patio is crazy-busy, and although we were seated quickly, service does run a little slow.  It is worth it though, for the fun atmosphere and there is plenty of interesting people watching all around.   And, the place is crazy-busy for a reason: the food is great (excellent eggs benedict for me, with a big breakfast burrito for the hubby) and the atmosphere is just warm and happy.

The great service at our hotel lasted right up through check-out, when Mr. Stearns (can't recall his first name) went and grabbed us a couple of ice-cold bottles of water for our journey home, and also encouraged us to stop by for a free car wash at another business that he owns nearby.  (We didn't, but thought it was a great parting touch!)   Thanks to the Hotel California and the Stearns family, we celebrated another memorable, relaxing, and romantic anniversary weekend in our favorite desert town. 

Links of Interest:
Hotel California
Desert Riviera, the mid-century themed property also owned by the Stearns
Elmer's, a small chain of coffee-shops with excellent breakfasts
Pinocchio in the Desert, popular breakfast & lunch spot in downtown PS.
The Reading Nest -- my other lifestyle blog, where you can view the vintage item I bought on this trip!

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